metal detector coil construction
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Free Metal Detecting Tips
Hunting in Iron infested Areas
Author: Internet Tip
How much iron and or mineralization is in the ground dictates how your threshold will react. In fairly clean areas you should be able to pump up the sensitivity to where you either lose the threshold to a null, or you get too much falsing from airborne interference, and still be able to swing the coil at a reasonable pace. As a general rule when you get a solid null, you should either put the sens in auto or just keep it about the 1 o'clock position or even minimum. The Sov will still see good targets through the null, but it won't get em real deep, for the most part 6 inches or less. Also you should slow your swing speed to a crawl and listen for little spikes of audio, once you hear something slow down even more and attack the spot that gave you that spike from a few different angles. If you get it more than one direction or it is pretty solid when wiggling (no more than in inch or so to each side of the signal) the coil quickly over the spot in one direction, then switch to all metal and see how much the target moves from where your getting it in disc. If it stays within an inch in all metal, is a quick response and doesn't blare at you like large iron would dig it. One thing that's a dead give away of a false of a rusty nail is when you get a quiet signal in disc but a blast in all metal or a drawn out response in all metal, coins and most good targets give a quick blip in all metal while iron and junk will almost seem like the signal is pulling your coil towards it in a long drawn out response. Be careful and go slow when checking in all metal and listen for a short blip followed by that drawn out response, cause you have probably just located a coin near iron. It takes a bit of practice but it can be a killer in these spots as long as you go slow listen for any response and check them out thoroughly. Some people will say that its too time consuming or that its too much of a pain in the neck to have to go through all this, or that other machines would find these good targets easier, but if that's the case how come my Sov finds them in the spots that have been gone over by a hundred machines? I think you'll be amazed at what a good signal you'll get from a coin in these areas once you've locked on to the signal. Remember the secret to getting a response from iron areas is to keep the line of detection above the good target and not over the junk, don't swing the coil more than a couple inches to each side of the spot you got a response. Let the Sov analyze it and it will lock on. If you swing 6 inches off it the sov will need to null the trash and you will have to start all over. Its time consuming but you wont dig much junk in areas that other machines falsely ID'ed iron as a coin, so with that you more than make up for any lost time and do less digging.
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I'll never forget the first time I swung a metal
detector and it BEEPED!
I dug up my treasure and I held that shiny circle of metal in my hand--a
quarter!! Wow! A whole twenty-five cents! Since then I have treasured
hunted all over the world. This site has info on metal detector coil construction and hopefully
anything else you need to know about metal detecting, treasure hunting,
and finding gold!
One thing that I have found indispensible for any type of treasure hunting or metal detecting are a good set of maps. With a set of topo maps or historical maps, you can find treasure caches that no one else knows about. Find ghost towns, long lost encampments, shanty towns, old farms, schools churches, roads, you name it! My favorite place to get maps is online from Maps.com. They have a huge selection.
And if you are an undersea treasure hunter, you need a good GPS and nautical charts. Fugawi has a great selection of these available on their website.
Good luck!
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